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It is said that when one is in Birmingham, Ala., the question to ask is: “Where do you work?” In Montgomery, Ala., it is “Where do you go to church?” and in Mobile, Ala., the most pertinent question is “What will you have to drink?”

Who knew that the coastal town was a fun-loving mini version of New Orleans? And, in fact, Mobile is the home of the first Mardi Gras, before New Orleans took out the patent on the Bacchanalian holiday.

Mobile is a small city trying to improve itself, and much credit must be given (and often is) to Dr. David Bronner, CEO of the Retirement Systems of Alabama. Dr. Bronner is as much an economic development stimulant as an executive. In order to make Mobile more attractive to companies and tourists, he developed a plan based on providing the amenities people would want. It’s sort of the economic development version of “If you build it, they will come.”

First up: world-class golf courses. So the city has a new Robert Trent Jones golf course at Magnolia Grove. Then, on the theory that these golfing executives would want a world-class hotel to stay at, the retirement fund spent over $200 million to renovate The Battle House Hotel, which was originally built in 1852 and closed in the mid-1970’s. The hotel has quite a history. Stephan A. Douglas stayed there the night he lost the presidency to Abraham Lincoln. Not only did President Woodrow Wilson stay there, but so did Elvis Presley the day he was kicked out of the fairgrounds for “doing the shake.”

Airboat Ride
Photo credit: Mobile Bay CVB

Reopened in 2007 as a Renaissance Hotel, The Battle House boasts 238 rooms, a new spa as well as a ballroom perfect for debutantes to be introduced to society. By all means, go to the spa. It has everything, including a Zen-like fire pit for pure relaxation. The fund has renovated other hotels in town, including the Renaissance Riverview Hotel, which just underwent a $74 million renovation.

There is surprisingly much to do in Mobile. The first activity should be to put the area in perspective, so make a trip to the Museum of Mobile, that has succinct but very informative exhibits from the city’s founding, to its Native population to the wars fought over it by the Spanish, French, British, Americans and the Confederacy. It does not flinch when showing its relationship to slavery and the Civil War, nor to segregation. Its World War II participation is also fascinating. Still a center for shipbuilding, Mobile’s population (mostly Rosie the Riveters types) was building one ship a week for the war effort at one point.

A few blocks away is the Gulf Coast Exploreum Science Center, which has six permanent exhibits, including My Bodyworks.  The centerpiece of this gallery is the heart bypass surgery and knee replacement surgery that viewers can experience. It also has several interactive exhibits that take a reading on one’s health, such as strength, flexibility, heart rate and body mass ratio. Spend a few minutes taking the tests and it’s back to diet and exercise. There is an area for children and The Wharf of Wonder, which is just for kids under five. The latter was submerged under 11 feet of water, during Hurricane Katrina, but is now up and running again.

USS Alabama Battleship
Photo credit: Mobile Bay CVB

Another great trip is to the USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park, where you can really see how the sailors lived both on the battleship and on the Submarine USS Drum, which earned 12 Battle Stars for valor during WWII. Ironically, the Lucky A, as the battleship was known, survived WWII without any damage to ship or crew but was not so lucky during Hurricane Katrina where it sustained more than $8 million in damages.

Near the battleship is the 5 Rivers Delta Center, a new $10 million facility that stands on the Mobile-Tensaw River Delta, the second largest river delta system in the continental U.S. You can take canoe rides or a pontoon delta safari ride aboard the Pelican on Five Rivers Delta Safaris and get up close and personal to the wildlife.

Bellingrath Gardens
Photo credit: Mobile Bay CVB

If you’re from Atlanta, you can’t ever get away from Coca-Cola, and it’s a good thing. Bellingrath Gardens, a 65-acre garden estate was built on Coca-Cola Bottling Co. money. Now is the perfect time as the gardens boast more than three million sparkling lights and more than 835 holiday exhibits. It’s a perfect time to walk through the gardens, see the displays and have some hot chocolate at the end.

There is so much to do in Mobile, such as a cruise down Alligator Alley, an afternoon sail aboard the Joshua, a classic 72-foot schooner, or side trips to quaint and artsy Fairhope or Dauphin Island.

Wintzells Oyster House
Photo credit: Mobile Bay CVB

But frankly, we’re getting hungry, so it’s time to visit some first-class seafood restaurants. We started out wanting the best sunset in town, so it was off to Bimini Bob’s for fried shrimp and fried crab claws. A must-do in Mobile is a visit to the Wintzell’s Oyster House, a landmark since 1938. Whether you want your oysters “fried, stewed or nude,” you’ll find them here. Ask for Miss Pinky to serve you, and make sure you read the hundreds of sayings posted on the walls.

Not tired of oysters yet? Then go to The Original Oyster House that is a local favorite. For a more formal setting, try the Café Royal, which is on the first floor of the oldest high-rise building in the Southeast. You can still see remnants of the drug store behind the bar. Order the grouper Oscar or the cowboy ribeye.

Mobile is a short (and inexpensive) flight from Atlanta or an easy six-hour drive. It may be one of those places that you wouldn’t necessarily think about visiting, but give it a try; you just might surprise yourself. Whether it’s a romantic getaway or a family fling, the only question you just might be asking yourself after visiting Mobile is “Why didn’t we go sooner?” 

Mary Welch is an Atlanta-based freelance writer. A former editor in chief of Atlanta Woman magazine, Mary has written for a number of media outlets including Business to Business Magazine, Pink, South, Glamour and Georgia Trend.

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